Camino Frances | Day 2
Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña
On the second day, I made my way from Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña. A pleasant day filled with close encounters with many farm animals. I take a short break by a stream to dip my feet in the water and tend to hot spots and blisters on my feet.
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Woke up this morning the sweet sounds of the guy next to me snoring like there was no tomorrow. Oh boy, I better get used to this. Out of the blue, the hospitalero came playing his guitar down the hallway singing a good morning song in different languages. I wasn’t quick enough to grab my camera, but it was quite the surprise.
I took my time gathering my belongings and was one of the last ones to leave the Albuergue. I took the obligatory selfie at the 790 km to Santiago road sign. It was a cold morning, and I wasn’t looking forward to freezing my ass off like I did yesterday, so it was time to put on my down jacket. I’m still regretting the decision not to bring my trekking poles as today is a downhill kind of day.
I made my way cutting through an ancient witch hunted forest and out into “la cruz blanca” a statue on the forest edge. I had breakfast at a bar and went to a market across the street. I was looking for a battery for the microphone but no luck.
I kept walking down the main road to the village of Burgete where I completely miss the turn and kept on walking for a couple of blocks before realizing I was all alone and probably lost. I backtrack and found a bunch of yellow arrows pointing in the right direction. It is hard to believe I could miss it but it happens, especially when you drift off into daydream territory.
Walked over a wooden bridge on my way out of town and I was taken aback by the sound of the stream and the shipping birds. A few meters down the path I came across my first cow crossing. The will become a recurrent theme as I get closer to Galicia.
It got so cold and windy I had to put on the buff and used my down jacket as a blanket.
Saw a group of horses gracing on the side of the path and took a moment to catch my breath.
Saw the first sign to Zubiri the intended destination had I not read on the guidebook complaints about noise coming from a factory adjacent to the town. I plan to keep on walking to Larrasoaña and shortening tomorrows walk to Pamplona.
The next village up ahead was the village of Espinal. No pilgrim support but a nice-looking church, at least from the air, as I flew the drone to get a few beauty shots.
It was an apple for a snack as I made my way through cattle fences and a forest. I took a five-minute break after crossing the most peculiar of bridges. In essence, the bridge is a bunch of concrete pillars you hop over to cross the stream. I took off my shoes and dipped my feet into the cold water. I let them air dry before applying Vaseline and covering up hot spots with band-aids.
The village of Bizkarreta had a restaurant where I had lunch, and most importantly, I found a store where I got a battery for the microphone.
Zubiri is a pilgrim’s town with everything you may want or need. I bumped into the Spaniards and Amin from Germany and shared a beer with them before moving on. From now on I did not see another pilgrim on the road. I had, you might say, El Camino all to myself.
Walked by the infamous factory and realized it wasn’t as bad as they had made it look on the guidebook. Larrasoaña is only 5.5 km away on flat terrain.
I found a stick by a waterfall and decided to give it a try for the remaining of the day. It helps redistribute some of the weight, but as I made it to town, I decided to part ways and threw in the river ala Wilson from Castaway.
The Municipal Albergue was full, but they had extra room in a two-story house a couple of blocks away. I settled into my new routine, washed my clothes and hanged out to dry as the sun was slipping away. The only restaurant in town closes on Wednesday and you guessed it, it's Wednesday. Luckily, the supermarket was serving microwave food, and that’s what I had for dinner.
I decided to fly the drone, and a local approached me. The guy was curious, and after talking a bit, he asked me if I could film his house and send him the clip once I made it back home which I did.
As soon as the sun went down, I headed inside and dug myself into my sleeping bag. It was freezing cold and tomorrow is another day.
Daily Cost Breakdown
€05.00 Breakfast
€03.90 Battery
€03.00 Lunch
€01.80 Snack
€11.00 Dinner
€08.00 Albergue
_______________
€32.70 Total
Albergue de peregrinos
+34 948 760 000
+34 948 760 105
Hostal Casa Sabina
Roncesvalles, 18
+34 948 760 012
casasabina.roncesvalles.es
+34 948 760 105
Burgete
Hostal Burguete
C. San Nicolás, 71
+34 948 760 005
Hotel Rural Loizu
C. San Nicolás, 13
+34 948 760 008
Casa Rural Bergara
C. San Bartolomé, 42
+34 948 760 141
+34 690 644 696
Casa Rural Pedroarena
C. Berexi, 6
+34 948 760 164
+34 619 444 207
Casa Rural Txiki Polit
Av. Roncesvalles, 42
+34 948 760 019
+34 607 815 587
Casa Rural Don Jáuregui
C. San Nicolás, 32
+34 948 760 031
+34 657 866 361
Camping Urrobi
Ctra. Pamplona-Valcarlos, km 42
+34 948 760 200
C/San Bartolomé Nº 42 Bis , 31694 Espinal-Auzperri, Spain
Mezkiritz
Casa Artegia
C. San Cristobal, 16
+34 644 593 539
Bizkarreta
Pensión El-La
C. San Pedro, 44
Casa Rural Batit
C. San Pedro, 18
+34 616 068 347
Casa Rural Maitetxu
C. San Pedro, 12
+34 669 755 563
+34 948 760 175
Casa Rural Amatxi Elsa
C. San Pedro, 14
+34 948 760 391
+34 626 166 538
Casa Rural Adi y Lastur
C. San Pedro, 8A
+34 948 790 421
+34 679 270 519
Casa Rural La Posada Nueva
C. San Pedro, 2
+34 948 760 173
+34 699 131 433
Lintzoain
Casa Rural Primorena Txiki
C. San Saturnino, 11
+34 690 125 518
+34 649 077 989
Posada El Camino
C. San Saturnino, 48
+34 622 688 535
+34 948 768 074
Albergue de peregrinos
Av. de Zubiri, s/n
+34 628 324 186
Albergue Zaldiko
C. Puente de la Rabia, 1
+34 609 736 420
Albergue Río Arga Ibaia
C. Puente de la Rabia, 7
+34 948 304 243
+34 680 104 471
Av. de Roncesvalles, 22
+34 697 186 560
+34 948 304 170
alberguesegundaetapa.com
Albergue El Palo de Avellano
Av. Roncesvalles, 16
+34 666 499 175
Albergue Ezpeleku
+34 948 304 721 | +34 696 808 894
albergueezpeleku.com
Hostel Acá y Allá
C. San Miguel, 18
+34 615 257 666
alojamientosacayalla.com
Larrasoaña
Albergue de peregrinos
C. San Nicolás, s/n
+34 626 718 417
Albergue San Nicolás
C. Sorandi, 5-7
+34 619 559 225
+34 659 815 961
Asteia Hostel
C. Errotabidea, 24
+34 663 371 513
+34 948 060 411
Pensión Tau
C. Errotabidea, 18
+34 622 745 620
+34 607 849 540
Pensión El Camino
C. Portalcelay, 12
+34 948 304 250
+34 699 789 160
Pensión El Peregrino
C. San Nicolás, 50
+34 663 895 411
+34 948 304 554
pensionperegrinolarrasoana.com