Camino Frances | Day 5

Puente la Reina to Ázqueta, 29 km

I decided to mix it up a bit by waking up at 7 am to let everyone leave before me. I had a late breakfast and Left Puente la Reina by crossing the famous bridge, one of the highlights of the trip.

I kept having problems with the microphone, and it was starting to get on my nerves. I was willing to change the battery once again, but something tells me there is something wrong with the camera audio plug.

The town of Mañeru was utterly deserted. I only saw other pilgrims walking the streets. It is Saturday, and the local businesses were closed. I refilled my water bottle at a fountain built-in 2004. 

Ciaruqui is a medieval town built on a hill. One can see it from a distance surrounded by vineyards. I had no luck finding a battery, so I moved on. Estella is only 12.8 km away.

I wWalked under the Alloz canal and over the Rio Salado bridge where I took a break on the bank. I took off my shoes and dipped my feet into the salty stream. It was a perfect spot for a lunch break, and pilgrims were doing so. I applied sunscreen to my face and decided to fly the drone. I had the scariest of moments when I flew the drone into the canopy of a tree. I thought I had lost it, but miraculously it didn’t hit any branches and came out unscathed as I pushed back on the joystick. It was a close call and one I don’t wish to repeat.

I had paella and a glass of OJ for lunch at “la bodega del Camino bar and restaurant” in Lorca. I refilled my water bottle at the main square before realizing the water was not drinkable. I empty the bottle even though my filter could take care of it. There is plenty of other taps, and I don’t wish to run the risk of getting sick.

Found a small market on my way out of town and they had a battery. I’m having doubts as the packaging was dusty and it looks like it’s been sitting in the back of the store for some time. Come to think of it; the battery might not even be fully charged.

As I made my way through the agricultural fields, I saw a cross atop a hill in the distance. It took a full charge to fly the drone there and back, but the views were worth it.

I got a stamp at the church in Villatuerta and came face to face with the oddest of water fountain shaped like a clown.

After walking for 2.5 km, I made it to Estella but not before making my way over the Ega river and past an industrial area. By now my feet are on fire, and I still have an hour walk ahead of me.

I should have stayed in Estella, but I followed my guidebook’s advice to keep going to Ayegui. It was a big mistake as the Municipal Albergue de San Cipriano was closed. By now I have walked my first 100km of the trip and was faced with two options, keep going for two hours or turn back. It was almost 4 pm, but I still had plenty of light as the sun sets around 9 pm. I decided to keep on going of course.

I was pleasantly surprised by a free wine tap for pilgrims at Bodegas Irache. I helped myself to some red wine, and on I went.

By now my phone's battery was down to 17 percent, but thanks to the drone battery and the USB adapter that came with I was able to recharge it to 50 percent. I was now all alone on the Camino as I did not see a fellow pilgrim all the way up to Ázqueta.

As I walked the empty streets, I saw a group of kids playing. I asked them if they knew of a place to stay in town and they pointed me to La Perla Negra, a privately run Albergue with the hippest of vibes. There were seven other pilgrims beside me including a couple with a dog.

I had a great meal at the Albergue courtesy of the owner and her gypsy friend.

After dinner, we talked for about an hour before heading to bed. Tonight, I’m not sleeping on a bunk bed as I got a personal bed all to myself.