Camino Frances | Day 10

Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, 20.8 km

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It was another early cold morning with the temperatures near 0 Celcius. I left the Albergue and stopped by the café on the way out of town and had a chance to wake up and warm up with some coffee.

The way out of town reminded me of Arizona and Utah rocky, desert terrain. Very surreal as it quickly turned to the all too familiar agriculture fields. Every day is a new experience, a new environment with its unique features and wildlife.

I had checked the weather forecast last night, and I was alarmed to find a 90 chance of snow this morning. I did not bring winter gear for this trip, and it is slowly turning into one. Luckily for me, the forecast missed the shot, and I was spared having to walk on snow and freeze my ass off.

I followed the path next to an agriculture irrigation canal to the village of Afron. It was so cold Shia LeBuff made it out of the depths of my backpack. I was digging my outfit. Where else can I look like a bandit walking into a small village and not being out of place?

A sign on the water fountain in the main square warned pilgrims not to drink the water. So far it is a hit and miss, but fortunately, there is always another water fountain around the corner.

Just on the outskirts of town, I come across a Picoto from medieval times. Prisoners used to be chained to them as a form of punishment and decapitated heads were left on display for all to see.


Just as I was ready to lose my breakfast Jose bumped into me. I met Jose with the other Spaniards as I arrived in Roncesvalles and I had lost sign of them after Puente de Reina. He plans to walk half a stage further than me today, but for the rest of the way, we walked together.

We stopped at a golf course to have a mid-morning snack. Jose has walked El Camino many times, and this time around he’s trying to stay in the towns in between the places the guidebooks recommend pilgrims to stay for the night.

The walled village of Santo Domingo has a very medieval vibe. I settled at the Municipal Albergue and fell back on the routine before heading out to explore the central plaza and get some drone shots. I saw a stork in one of the towers and got close enough to get a nice shot.

I had some pinchos and red wine to unwind and before heading back to the Albergue. I took advantage of a lockbox to store my valuables. It only cost me a Euro. I went straight to the backyard to get my clothes from the clothesline. It started to rain, and I snow at the same time.

It was a pilgrim meal for dinner at a small restaurant, and I had about a quarter of a bottle of wine. Enough to send me to the comfort of my top bunk bed at the Albergue.

It was 9:00 pm and the sun was still out. I have not seen a single sunset in Spain thus far.

Daily Cost Breakdown

€02.60 Breakfast

€03.20 Snack

€05.10 Lunch

€01.50 Snack

€12.70 Dinner

€07.00 Albergue


€32.10 Total

Today's stage broken down with the help of Google Earth.

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