Camino Frances | Day 11

Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado, 22 km

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Another cold morning and the €40, two weeks data plan is over. I’m at the mercy of Albergue WIFI; lord help me. I saw the weather segment on the morning news at a bar, and it turns out it is 1° Celsius. The forecast does not look good. It’s going to be a rainy week ahead.

Breakfast was the usual, Spanish omelet, orange juice, and café con leche. I saw everyone leave from the Albergue starting at around 6:00 am but not me. I decided to start late this morning to avoid dead time this afternoon.

Just as I was making my way across the bridge over Rio Oja O Glera on my way out of town, a stork came to say goodbye.
Plants had frozen overnight and were beginning to thaw as the sun came out. I found a stick on the side of the path and took advantage of El Camino’s generosity “El Camino provides.”

565 km to Santiago.

A modest wooden cross caught my attention as I made my way next to the highway. “La Cruz de los Valientes” recalls a medieval dispute between the towns of Santo Domingo and Grañón over ownership of 115 acres of land.

Not far off the cross under an overpass, I find inspirational graffiti or quotes covering the entire wall. For better or worst this practice has taken over and its something I will come to enjoy reading in the days to come.

Grañón is the last town in the province of La Rioja and the perfect spot to take a break and resupply at a café facing a drawing of a compass on the floor of plaza el Hórreo. Pilgrims occupied the tables outside the restaurant. They were digging into their morning breakfast and repacking their backpacks.

The temperature on the pharmacy display was 3°C.

I used the bathroom before leaving town.

I crossed from La Rioja into Castilla y León, home to the city of Burgos where I plan to take a rest day.

The first stop was at la Iglesia de la Virgen de la Calle in Redecilla del Camino to admire its beautiful altarpiece. There was a massage place, but it was closed, so on I went.

It was that time of the day when my Achilles tendons would start to act up on me but who am I to complain? I met a fellow Japanese pilgrim in his sixties walking at a snail speed after getting lost this morning and walking for about an hour each way in the wrong direction. I took an Ibuprofen 400 and kept on going.

I arrived in Belorado at 1:30 pm, went straight to the Municipal Albergue, and got me a top bed bunk at the Albergue. This time around it was a small yet charming facility with everything we may need. I washed my clothes and hanged them out on the fence. Met new Spanish pilgrim I will walk with for the next few days.
I took the drone and walked up to the ruins of an old castle overlooking the town. There were more storks and their nests atop of the bell towers.

Plaza Mayor was the place to be. The trees sounding the plaza had already shed their leaves after the winter months. I ordered some pinchos and a glass of red wine when I realized I had left my wallet back the Albergue. It was all right as the owner let me run back to the Albergue to get it.

The clothes dried and as the temperature began to plummet, I decided to call it a day.

Daily Cost Breakdown

€04.90 Breakfast

€01.00 Snack

€05.90 Lunch

€01.50 Snack

€11.50 Dinner

€08.00 Albergue


€32.80 Total

Today's stage broken down with the help of Google Earth.

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