Camino Frances | Day 23
Astorga to Foncebadón, 25 km
Damped, cloudy morning on my way out of this gorgeous medieval city. I went into an open bar to escape from the rain and to enjoy a café con leche, Oj and toast instead of Croissant.
The city soon gave way to suburbs, small towns, villages and then the countryside. I’m getting closer to Galicia with every passing day, and it’s not just mountains up ahead. Glooming clouds are coming my way.
After a few drizzles here and there, the skies cleared, and half my rain gear came out. The now-famous Meson cowboy in El Ganso waited for me. The period themed bar was featured in a French movie about El Camino. Made a quick stop to resupply. I had a quick snack and a pilgrim stamp before hitting the trail with force.
There was nothing scary about crosses in a dead forest. I put one up on the fence and made an improvised arrow on the ground out of stones.
I had a cold pressed juice and a banana at a hippy campground just before the strenuous uphill climb to the ruins of Foncebadón.
Other than the two albergues, the remains of this once ghost town are slowly being brought back to life thanks in part to us pilgrims. A downpour kept me indoors by a cozy fireplace with a healthy portion of spaghetti with meat and a glass of red wine. Nine euros to wash two sets of clothes was defiantly highway robbery, but what was a Cuban to do? It was still raining outside.
Tomorrow we climb to the highest point of the Camino Frances at 1,500 meters. As for today, let’s call it a day.
Daily Cost Breakdown