Camino Frances | Day 29

Sarria to Portomarín, 21.7 km

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A beautiful day ahead, you are going to see, I guarantee it but first a croissant and a café con leche to start the day. We followed the train tracks on the way out of town and all the way up a steep hill that really took my breath away if you know what I mean.


It was then an easy walk through sleepy villages and the occasional ghost town. A snack at a bar in the company of the tiniest of pilgrims


Reaching the last 100 km marker was truly a monumental milestone. It’s incredible how commercialized the Camino has becomes compared to days past.


A Five-kilometer descent into Portomarín took us past Cattle ranches, open fields and over a modern bridge spanning 1,000 feet. The town was painstakingly moved up the hill stone by stone to make way for a reservoir.


We skipped the shower for lunch at a restaurant as it was almost closing time for the traditional siesta break. After a few rounds of beer, we headed back for a much-needed shower and to clean our clothes on the washer and the dryer.


The albergue filled up faster than usual, and I was feeling lucky to have a bottom bunk bed. The messages left behind by past pilgrims under the top bed cracked me up.


It was then a quick visit to the impressive 12th century church of San Juan built by the order of Santiago to protect pilgrims during medieval times. With four defensive towers, the church resembles more a military castle than a place of worship.


Salmon with fries and red wine for dinner at a bar facing the plaza followed by ice cream before calling it a night.

Daily Cost Breakdown

€02.00 Breakfast

€05.00 Snack

€14.20 Lunch

€01.90 Snacks

€08.50 Dinner

€01.50 Laundry

€06.00 Albergue


€39.10 Total

Today's stage broken down with the help of Google Earth.

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