VIA FRANCIGENA | Day 17

Châlons-en-Champagne to le-meix-Tiercelin, 38 km

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A day of reckoning, but first, breakfast. I was looking at a 70km stretch of barren landscape with zero pilgrim support. I was exposed to 97 degrees with no shade in sight.

The via Francigena site recommended an alternative route that would put me three days behind schedule. I could have taken a train but let's be honest, who wants to do that?

If all roads lead to Rome, this one was built for it. With 10 liters of water and food rations for two days, I went for it. Lunch was a can of tune. I was in the desert kids, but even I have a few tricks up my sleeves.

Took a shower at an irrigation pump and refilled my water supplies. Found myself at a crossroads and was soon pointed in the right direction. With bars, closed or nonexistent a vending machine was a God sent.

Trekked on past new signs and finally wild camped at a park next to a loud neighbor and a barking dog.